Great rabbits but we no longer raise them.
Good luck in your search!
hi, may I ask how old your Silver Fox bunny is in the picture above?
also when should they normally start showing signs of ‘Silvering’?
I have a “pet quality” bunny, he looks quite similar to yours in one of your earlier posts, but he has random white hairs all over and not very obvious silvering, I’m guessing he’s about 4months going on 5 now.
You have a really cute bunny, he sure is a beauty :)
That is a females Silver Fox in the picture and she is almost 6 months old there (about anyway). The earlier post is probably one of my males—who happens to be about 2ish months in that picture (I am pretty sure anyway).
If your trying to decide if you have a silver fox or not you would want to consider some of the other aspects that “make” a silver fox rabbit.
Adult weight (adult weight is usually made by the time a rabbit is 6 to 8 months old) of about 9 to 11 pounds. There is a breed known only as Silver rabbit and they are in the 5 to 7 pound range if I remember correctly. They look similar but are smaller and don’t have the longer/brush back fur that the Silver has.
A perfect hair coat would be about an inch and a half to 2 inches long and would stand up and not fall back down to it’s normal position when stroked backwards.
Silvering is not specific other than it should be even and there should be no white “patches” on the rabbit. Some silver are more silvered than others. Almost no silver is the least desired. Excessive silvering to the point of being almost grayish/whitish is also undesirable. In pictures some Silver fox look as if the tips of their toes are white but it’s really a grayish shade that photos whitish looking. True white spots anywhere on the body are a disqualification —though occasionally people use them to breed for their other traits and weed out any babies with white “spots” that occur.
There are certain aspects to body shape that are considered more correct than others—but that is longer to explain and can be found through the American Rabbit Breeders Association.
Lastly, your bun could be a silver fox. If you desire to breed with that rabbit and eventually have pedigreed silver fox you can certainly do that. A 3 generation pedigree is the minimum that is accepted by the ARBA for registering a rabbit (registration is different than having a pedigree).
Good luck and my bunny thanks you for the compliment :-D
We’re getting ourselves ready (slowly) to begin raising rabbits for meat (just for ourselves, not for selling), and we’re interested in the heritage breeds for the fact that they can be pastured much more effectively than other breeds. In fact, our whole reason for wanting to raise our own meat is to get access to affordable, high quality GRASS fed meat.
Breeders of silver fox are hard to find. We’re hoping to learn more about how long it typically takes to get them to a good weight for eating, what their typical litter sizes are, their temperments, and their general health. We live in Massachusetts, so have pretty cold winters. Are silver foxes relatively hearty?
Thank you in advance for you time.
Yes, all rabbit should do well in your climate. Heat is actually the most difficult and super cold is difficult for new litters if their cage is not sited well. We move our rabbits both in tractors and also I have pens better suited for summer heat or having litters in the winter. My “winter cages” are inside a building and have an area with solid wood bottoms and walls to help keep the babies area warm. These pens are too hot in the summer though so they are empty through the summer months. My summer cages are sited around my property under trees for maximum shade if the rabbit is not able to go into a tractor that is. When I buy older rabbits they sometimes do not “acclimate” to friends and so I can not run just one rabbit in a tractor which means it has to have a pen.
I do think the Silver Fox is one of the quicker growing for eating…though other breeds are not to be tossed aside lightly. All breeds have pluses and minuses and it sometimes comes down to little things like personalities that make keeping the breed you choose worth while. After all….enjoying taking care of your livestock is almost as important as feed conversion. Some people would take a slightly smaller rabbit to eat and choose based on fancy colors. I know a number of people that do raise angoras both for fleece and to eat. They are quite small….but the fiber is the plus for the growers. There is no right or wrong and since rabbits (to me) are one of the cheaper and easier animals to feed since you can feed them grasses, weeds and hay, growth is somewhat irrelevant unless your selling for market. I have to wait a tad longer for my rabbit to fill out since they mostly eat grasses/weeds during the spring, summer and fall. However my cost is minimal—it’s just a time factor.
And about litter size. That is genetic (if mom always has 4 then there is a great chance the does from her will also have small litters) but also nutrition. We do find some does come to us having had “regular” size litters of 6 and after being here will regularly have litters of 10 and do fine. I think adding grasses/weeds does change the nutrition factor and so “encourages” the body to throw more eggs. Others also say to put the female in with the buck twice at 12 hour intervals (we don’t do this as it is time consuming for us to mess with) to get larger litters. Some people leave the female in overnight with the buck to get larger litters —again something that not all breeders do (we have though not always) but some swear by. The latter does depend on your Does personality as some can be quite aggressive I have heard (mostly NZ and Cals but I am sure there are a few others out there besides those) though the few times we have done it we have had not problems.
Lastly health wise. Well compared to all the other livestock you can raise rabbits are really one of the healthiest. There are a few disease of course and a few pests (like fur mites) but over all if you feed well, keep at least fairly clean cages (males are quite messy) and quarantine new rabbits for a week or so to make sure they didn’t bring something home with them you will do fine. As I mentioned before…rabbits are really some of the easiest animals to raise.
I live in Augusta and am interested in Silver Fox Rabbits. I am currently trying to raise New Zealands.
David I am contacting you through your email.
Do you sell rabbits? of this type I am interested in buying a pair to breed
I sent you an email.
I am interested in possibly purchasing one or two show quality doe kit Silver Foxes as out crosses. When will you have next litter available, what is your prices, and are they Pedigreed? Also, how far are you from the Florida / Georgia boarder from I-75? Do you travel to Florida for rabbit shows? I am located in Ocala.
I have sent you a private email :-)
Where are you located at? I live in North Bend, Oregon and am looking to start breeding Silver Fox Rabbits for meat for my family and also will be tanning their pelts.
We are near Chattanooga Tn. Quite a long way from you but there are many Silver Fox breeders out your way.
I think you’ll love them. They are very nice rabbits overall (and we’ve raised many).
we are trying to find a breed of rabbit that will do well on our small acrege. We have been trying to rise flemish but they aren’t doing well, we are in southwest oklahoma. We don’t like to keep our animals caged. Our children are wanting something to show and we are looking for meat, trying to be selfsustaining. Do you ever have anyone coming this way that could transport a breeding trio if we were able to purchase some?
Sent you a private email Julie
We got blue, black, chocolate and lilac in one litter with black doe (“Christmas” born 12/26/11) and the blue buck you sold us! There are now three litters of SF in North Texas!!! Thank you, thank you, thank you!! We love our buns!!!
Amazing that you have all the colors now! That was “quick and easy” now wasn’t it LOL
All of our buns are awesome. Love their personalities. Can’t thank you enough!
hi what are your prices on the silver fox rabbits?
Brent, I emailed you privately :-)
Hi my family is starting out our silver foxes and have 5. They are a very enjoyable breed for all purposes we breed them for meat, to sell and to show. But they aren’t taking. The first time we bred them the doe had one kit. A friend of ours told us to try limiting their food to one tuna can full a day. Is there another reason why this is happening?
Your friend is assuming your does are overweight. Are they? If you are not sure you can tell by feeling their backbones. If you feel the backbone very well (spiny and pokey) then they are too thin and need more food. If they feel “just right”: kind of bumpy with the ability to feel each bone but still rounded and cushioned with some flesh (and I understand that this is a practice makes perfect thing) then they are fine with how you are feeding them. If you can not feel the back bone at all…or barely…they are fat. This does not work as well on growing kits under say 14 weeks because they are growing…but it is fabulous for judging adult rabbits. Rarely do outdoor rabbits get fat though. That is usually a problem of “house bunnies” that are neutered.
Now..to your kit problem. Most people feel that leaving the buck and doe together for longer than 5 minutes is horrible. However if you are having trouble with your does getting bred then leave them together in the bucks cage for a full 24 hours. This is perfectly o.k. Your doe may not look the happiest at first, and there may be some fur hanging around the next morning…but they will do fine and the buck will not injure or kill the doe nor vice versa. Promise…I’ve done this with young bucks that are having trouble figuring it out…and does that have been “shy” about getting bred. Works every time.
Though technically your buck should be able to breed every day…I try and skip at least one day if I want the same buck to breed two (or more) does. This way I know my bucks sperm count is up.
Lastly, pick a hand full of weeds and grasses. Any type…it would be rare for you to pick something in the winter that is dangerous to them are very very few things dangerous for a rabbit to eat and they are generally not in most peoples yards. However, soft new growing grasses and clovers will be a really good start along with chickweed and docks(google for pictures) Give your bucks and does this hand full of greens everyday for a couple of weeks. You can actually give them a huge pile …but start out with a hand full and increase over a week to “lots”. Good nutrition (aka vitamins and minerals) will often “correct” any problems you have with fertility as long as it is not genetic. I would be shocked if all 5 if your rabbits were infertile though. Give the greens along with their daily ration of pellets at first. You can read more about it here on my blog: http://thedancingfarmer.com/2012/02/03/feeding-rabbits-grass-and-other-free-foods/
There is more in the blog about feeding…but that is a good place to start.
As to feeding, I feed my rabbits pellets every other day—often filling their pellet “bin” quite full. I just fill their water every day. Sometimes they will have finished all their food and other times they will have some left depending on weather, exactly how much I put in, age of rabbit, did I offer a big pile of greens or a small one or just hay etc etc. I generally don’t believe in limiting food (other than to make sure that there is not so much that it get spilled or pee’d on or ruin in the rain etc) as too little food can also limit fertility as well as being over weight can. I have yet to have a rabbit that was over weight or one that had problems with over eating.
Lastly, if you only have one buck then it could potentially (potentially) be him. However..try the greens and try the “all nighter” with the doe and see what happens. If you still don’t have good luck try another buck—any buck if you have to.
However it is sometimes does are difficult..and sometimes bucks aren’t that smart. Try these tips and see what happens before you consider it a wash.
I came across your site as I was gathering information on pasturing rabbits. I have a small new farm in NW GA. The silver fox rabbits sound like a good fit for us to use for rotational, inter-species grazing. We currently have Kathlin lambs and chickens, (I am waiting for a milking Dexter). I would like our farm to provide grass fed meat for ourselves, our children and grandchildren. I have looked for local rabbits that aren’t cage raised for breeding stock and you are pretty close to us.
Can you tell me if you have a trio of breeders available and your prices.
Hi Celeste. I will be emailing you privately :-)
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